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Some engineered wood panel products, such as plywood and laminated veneer lumber (LVL) are able to be treated after manufacture with preservative solutions, whereas thin strand based products (OSB, OSL) and small particulate and fibre-based panels (particleboard, MDF) are not. The preservatives must be added to the wood elements before they are bonded together, either as a spray on, mist or powder. Products such as OSB are manufactured from small, thin strands of wood. Powdered preservatives can be mixed in with the strands and resins during the blending process just prior to mat forming and pressing. Zinc borate is commonly used in this application. By adding preservatives to the manufacturing process it’s possible to obtain uniform treatment throughout the thickness of the product. In North America, plywood is normally protected against decay and termites by pressure treatment processes. However, in other parts of the world insecticides are often formulated with adhesives to protect plywood against termites.

When you want to use wood that is not naturally decay resistant in a wet application (outdoors, for example) or where it may be at risk for insect attack, you need to specify preservative-treated wood. This is lumber that has been chemically treated to make it unattractive to fungi and other pests. In the same way that you would specify galvanized steel where it would be at risk of rusting, you specify treated wood where it will be used in a setting conducive to decay. Wood does not deteriorate just because it gets wet. When wood breaks down, it is because an organism is eating it as food. Preservatives work by making the food source inedible to these organisms. Properly preservative-treated wood can have 5 to 10 times the service life of untreated wood. This extension of life saves the equivalent of 12.5% of Canada’s annual log harvest. Preserved wood is used most often for railroad ties, utility poles, marine piles, decks, fences and other outdoor applications. Various treatment methods and types of chemicals are available, depending on the attributes required in the particular application and the level of protection needed.

Choosing a coating depends on what appearance is desired and what level of maintenance would be tolerable.  For many people, the basic choice is paint versus stain. The trade-off is often between maintenance frequency and appearance. For many people, additional criteria include VOC emissions, ease of clean up, and cost.  See our Links page for web sites and books with detailed information on choosing and applying wood finishes.  Read our About exterior wood coatings page for an understanding of the differences between paints and stains, pigmented versus clear coatings, and so forth. Because exterior wood shrinks and swells with moisture changes, the coating needs to be flexible. Flexibility varies by product – some products may be clearly identified as suitably flexible for wood’s dimensional changes.  Water-borne coatings are generally more flexible than alkyds. Coatings containing urethanes tend to be more flexible than coatings containing acrylics. For factory finishing with transparent coatings, with special considerations for UV and mildew control, please see our fact sheet Factory Finishing with Transparent Coatings: Requirements for Maximizing Longevity. Special Considerations If a coating is desired for a wear surface such as a deck or stairs, consult carefully with the coating manufacturer to choose the right product for this demanding application.  All coatings will be challenged by foot traffic and increased exposure to weather in a horizontal application.  High traffic routes will show wear faster than other areas. Paints and other thick film-formers may fail quickly in this situation, and a time-consuming refinishing process will be necessary each time the coating fails.  Hence many people will find a stain the more convenient choice for decks and stairs. Knots may require a bit of extra care as some wood extractives or resin may leach out or bleed. Extractive bleeding can cause discolouration, but this can usually be prevented by applying special stain-blocking primers. In some species, especially the pines and Douglas-fir, knots and pitch pockets contain resin. The resin can bleed and may discolour the finish, leave hard beads of resin on the surface, or may otherwise interfere with the coating bond. The best way to prevent this is to purchase kiln-dried wood where the resin should be set (hardened and fixed in place). If painting is desired, choose higher grades of lumber as these will have fewer knots, and choose kiln-dried lumber if using a resinous species. If siding or sidewall shingles are to be painted, the US Forest Products Laboratory (USFPL) recommends they be backprimed.  This application of a coating to the back side will plug the wood pores, preventing extractive bleed without blocking water vapour transmission and also preventing liquid water uptake. If possible, round out any sharp corners for best coating adhesion on these edges – for example, a square-edged stair tread will show coating degradation quickly, but bullnosed stair tread edges will retain a coating much longer.  This is because a coating applied to a corner tends to pull away from the corner, leaving a much thinner layer there than elsewhere. Surface Preparation Durability of any finish is highly dependent on proper application, which includes good preparation of the surface to be coated.  Specific details on surface preparation depend on what condition the wood is to begin with – read on for tips that apply to various scenarios. Surface Preparation for Fresh Wood While fresh, clean wood can be coated without surface preparation, a light sanding with 100 grit sandpaper (and dust removal) can double the service life of some water-based coatings. For best results apply a coating to a fresh wood surface as soon as possible after planing or sanding.  If exposed to rain and sun for more than two weeks, adhesion of coatings will not be as good. The surface must also be free of anything that will interfere with coating adhesion, such as dirt, damaged wood fibres and moisture. Grade stamps on wood should also be removed before applying a semitransparent stain, preferably by sanding. Cleaning If there are discolourations caused by dirt, iron stains or other discolourations on the wood surface, cleaning may be desired. It is always preferable to achieve cleaning with sanding when possible.  Another safe way to clean wood without damaging the surface is to simply use a garden hose, with or without a pressure nozzle.  Use pressure-washing only with extreme care as it can damage wood, especially low-density species such as western red cedar.  The pressure should be kept at a minimum, and never hold the nozzle in one place for a long time.  If necessary, use a little bit of dish detergent, and lightly scrub (not with steel wool, as this will leave iron stains) in the direction of the grain for any stubborn discolourations.  For discolourations that resist soap-and-water cleaning, chemical cleaners will be effective.  The chemicals in commercial wood cleaners can be caustic soda (sodium hydroxide), sodium metasilicate, oxalic acid, citric acid, phosphoric acid, borax or some mixture. Wood cleaners containing caustic soda at a 1% –  2% solution will remove nearly all discolourations with the least damage to wood. Some acid cleaners are especially effective for removing extractive stains and iron stain.  Bleach is commonly used for cleaning wood, but we do not recommend this, since a poor wood substrate will usually be left behind for subsequent coating.  Resin (pine pitch) can be generally removed with mineral spirits. Please note that all acidic or alkaline chemicals need to be thoroughly rinsed off before coating. Chemicals can be toxic, corrosive and harmful, so handle all these chemicals with care and follow all manufacturer’s instructions. Surface Preparation for Aged Wood Wood coatings need a fresh surface or the coating simply won’t last. The longer wood has been allowed to weather, the poorer the coating adhesion. If a fresh surface is allowed to weather or age outdoors for more than two weeks, coating adhesion will deteriorate. This is mainly due to wood damage from sunlight. Weathered wood surfaces usually have a higher acidity, higher contact angle, and lower surface energy. Restoring an aged wood surface is necessary before applying a coating.  The damaged (aged/weathered) wood fibres must be removed, exposing fresh wood.  Also,

Select heartwood where possible to minimize nutrient content of wood surfaces and prevent nutrients migrating through the coating to support fungal growth on the surface. Round all corners to minimum 5 mm radius to eliminate sharp edges where coating can thin out. Prepare surface by sanding with 100 grit sandpaper to physically and chemically activate the surface.  Pretreatment and coating should be applied immediately after sanding. Research shows sanding can double coating life. Pretreat with an aqueous formulation containing a UV absorber designed to absorb the visible light that must penetrate transparent coatings to permit the wood to be visible. If the subsequent coating is not completely opaque to UV light, a hindered amine light stabilizer should be added to the visible light protection system. Not only does a visible light protection system prevent degradation of the wood-coating interface, it also prevents release of lignin breakdown products that can be used as a food source by black-stain fungi and prevents light induced breakdown of the biocide components. This pre-treatment must also contain three low-dose carbon-based biocides with differing chemistries to provide cross protection against detoxification and with complementary spectra of activity providing resistance to the full range of black-stain fungi. It should ideally have water repellent properties and must maintain wood surface pH close to neutral or slightly alkaline. Apply a transparent water-based catalyzed urethane coating, containing organic and inorganic UV absorbers with absorbance that extends from UVB through to the high-energy part of the visible spectrum (violet light). The coating must virtually eliminate UV from penetrating to the wood, preventing breakdown of wood, biocides and water repellents. This coating will be formulated to be damp-wood friendly to allow application soon after pre-treatment. It will contain no nutrients for fungal growth. It must have an optimum combination of moisture excluding efficiency and vapour permeability to minimize moisture uptake and allow drying after rain. The first coat to be designed to penetrate and bond to the wood, subsequent coats to be designed to ensure maximum intercoat adhesion without sanding between coats. Sufficient coats to be applied to give a film thickness no less than 60 microns to minimize the ability of black-stain fungi to penetrate the film with their infection pegs. The surface layer to have sheeting rather than beading properties to ensure rapid drying after rain or dew, reducing the time available for spore germination. Additional detailed information on coating wood surfaces has been assembled by the Joint Coatings and Forest Products Committee (http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/pdf2004/fpl_2004_bonura001.pdf, 2004).

For new wood, remember: The wood must be dry. Drying time depends on a few factors. Ideally the wood should be kiln-dried (stamped “S-DRY”, “KD” or “KDAT”, see glossary of “dry lumber”). If the wood is surface wet from rain or washing, let dry 1 to 2 days. If the wood is wet through (green lumber, pressure-treated lumber not stamped “KDAT”), 2 days of drying is acceptable if using a “damp-friendly” coating. Otherwise: The wood must be allowed to thoroughly dry to a stable outdoor moisture content; about 15% in most climates. The characteristics of the wood and the climatic characteristics of its environment are so variable that drying time is hard to predict. The common way to determine wood moisture content is with a moisture meter. (Note: specific correction factors should be applied if a moisture meter is used on preservative-treated wood.) Weather conditions during coating application can affect the coating’s drying, appearance and performance. Follow the coating manufacturer’s recommendation. Coat as soon as possible after the wood has been planed or sanded. Apply finishes within two weeks of exposure, or sooner if possible (Surface Preparation for Fresh Wood). Otherwise, follow the instructions for aged (weathered) wood below. If the wood is very smooth, lightly sand it to roughen the surface with 100-120 grit sand paper. This greatly improves the coating bond. Brush free of dirt and sawdust. If painting the wood, apply a primer coat. Use an extractive-blocking primer, if needed (for example, with western red cedar or redwood) over the entire piece, or a knot sealing primer if needed (Special Considerations). When dry, apply two coats of top quality paint. For stains and water repellents, follow the instructions on the can regarding number of coats. Carefully follow the instructions on the can regarding best environmental conditions for coating, application recommendations, safety precautions and clean-up. For aged (weathered) wood, remember: For wood that has been previously coated, please read about refinishing. Clean the wood and remove discolourations such as iron stain, if desired. Expose fresh wood because coatings perform best when applied to freshly exposed wood surfaces. Allow to dry. See Surface Preparation for Aged Wood. Brush free of dirt and sawdust, and proceed with application of the coating. When maintaining or refinishing, remember: Avoid the need to refinish by keeping an eye on the coating and adding a fresh coat before the previous coat wears away, cracks or peels. This may be as frequent as every six months with water repellents, every year or two with stains, and every few years with paint (See Maintenance). Spot-treat worn areas to extend the period between full applications of a fresh coat. Sand away any failed coating and any weathered wood, and re-apply the coating (See Maintenance). If the coating has failed on a large scale, or the coating is getting too thick for refinishing, or if a change in type of coating is desired, completely strip away the old coating – please read about refinishing.

Since depot treatment is localized, it is critical that it be placed in the right location, which requires an understanding of how moisture may get into the structure. This can only be done when construction is complete or very near completion. At that point the degree of protection by design can be assessed and any water traps can be identified and, where possible, eliminated. The treatment can then be applied in the right location to intercept moisture close to its point of entry. Depot treatments are an excellent choice for a few common design applications such as partially exposed beams. When a beam penetrates the building envelope, only a portion is exposed to moisture and it makes sense to just treat that part. Depot treatments are especially useful for products that are not well-suited to pressure treatment with waterborne preservatives, like glulam. Similarly, depot treatments are appropriate for exposed log ends in log homes – logs that extend beyond the protective roof overhang are at risk of decay. Solids Depot treatments most commonly use a solid form of preservative. Borate, copper/borate and fluoride rods are highly suited to this end use since they are easy to install and the active ingredients only become mobile if moisture entry occurs. Other formats Pastes can be packed into drilled holes or routed grooves – log home grooves are an appropriate application. Liquid injection is less common, as this involves drilling small holes, inserting a pin nozzle injector connected to a 70 -120 psi tank/pump, and forcing preservative along the grain under pressure. A series of such holes is required, particularly for large dimensions, to increase loading. Less suited to depot treatments, fumigants have not, to our knowledge, been used in these applications.

Supplementary treatment may be added wherever on-site cutting or drilling of wood is unavoidable, or where it is suspected the original protection measures may be inadequate. This is most commonly done in applications such as wood foundations, agricultural buildings, or non-residential long-life applications such as utility poles and bridge timbers. For wood foundations and agricultural buildings, it is normal to expect some end cutting and boring for bolts, pipes or electrical wiring. Typically copper naphthenate is brushed on the cut ends or holes in the treated wood to protect the exposed surfaces. Experience has shown that this is adequate for the limited exposure resulting from such cases. For cases such as poles or bridge timbers, the original preservative protection can be lost over time due to degradation or depletion of the active ingredients. A need for supplementary treatment may be indicated by damage to similar structures in the same area. Or there may be evidence that the risk of damage has increased, for example, if new termites move into the area. In cases like utility poles, where these are part of the physical infrastructure of an organization, inspection, maintenance and remediation are regularly practiced to ensure continued safety in use and to schedule replacement. Often the cost of supplementary treatment is relatively small compared to the cost of inspection, and is a very small fraction of the cost of premature failure. Supplementary treatment may also be prudent in terms of due diligence (reducing legal liability). During inspection of these structures, drills or increment borers may be used to determine the condition of the interior of the wood members. It is advised to treat these holes, to avoid infection from non-sterilized drills and borers. In addition, as holes are typically drilled where decay is suspected or anticipated, treating the holes is wise to supplement protection at that site. Solids Borate, copper/borate and fluoride rods have seen increasingly widespread use as supplementary treatments for internal decay due to their convenience in handling and very low toxicity. Copper moves more slowly in the wood than borate, providing protection to the zone around the rod if the borate is removed over time through mass flow of water. This is mainly of concern for utility poles in wet climates, where moisture moves into the pole from the soil, wicks up the pole and evaporates above ground, moving the borate up the pole with it – this leaves the borate in a part of the pole not especially at risk for decay. The rate of water flow may be relatively slow in Douglas fir (an impermeable wood species) treated with an oil-borne preservative having some water repellency. It may be more rapid in southern pine (a very permeable wood species) treated with a waterborne preservative. Liquids, Pastes and Gels Spray and foam application of liquids and gels are increasingly used for supplementary treatment of wood frame buildings against termites and wood boring beetles. Holes are drilled into each stud space and the liquids or gels are pumped in under pressure. Coverage cannot be expected to be as effective as that achieved by spray treatment during construction. Liquids can be poured or pumped into drilled holes to treat internal decay in utility poles or timbers. Typically the loading of preservative that can be achieved is limited in the first case by the size and location of the holes and the solubility of the chemical, and in the second case by the permeability of the wood. Another approach is to leave a pressurized device attached to the pole below ground, which pushes a larger amount of liquid into the pole over a longer time period. Care must be taken to ensure that drilled holes do not intersect voids or checks leading to the surface of the wood; otherwise, the liquids can flow out. Pastes can be packed into drilled holes to treat internal decay. Alternatively, they can be brushed or trowelled on or applied on bandages to treat external decay. Fumigants Fumigant treatments have been used successfully for decades on utility poles and timber structures. The gas moves rapidly through the wood, adsorbing to the lignocellulose and providing several years of residual protection.

Treatability of Major North American Softwoods Some wood is easier to treat than others. The particular structure of the cells for a given piece of wood will determine how permeable the wood is to chemicals. This table describes the permeability of common softwoods used in North America. The permeability ratings are: 1 – Permeable 2 – Moderately Impermeable 3 – Impermeable 4 – Extremely Impermeable Tree Permeability Permeability Predominant in the Tree   Sapwood Heartwood   Douglas Fir 2 4 Heartwood  Western Hemlock 2 3 Heartwood Eastern Hemlock 2 4 Heartwood White Spruce 2 3-4 Heartwood Engelmann Spruce 2 3-4 Heartwood Black Spruce 2 4 Heartwood Red Spruce 2 4 Heartwood Sitka Spruce 2 3 Heartwood Lodgepole Pine 1 3-4 Heartwood Jack Pine 1 3 Heartwood Red Pine 1 3 Sapwood Southern Pine 1 3 Sapwood Ponderosa Pine 1 3 Sapwood Amabilis Fir (Pacific silver fir) 2 2-3 Heartwood Alpine Fir 2 3 Heartwood Balsam Fir 2 4 Heartwood Western Red Cedar 2 3-4 Heartwood Eastern White Cedar 2 3-4 Heartwood Yellow Cypress 1 3 Heartwood Western S-P-F 2 3-4 Heartwood Eastern S-P-F 2 4 Heartwood Hem-Fir 2 3 Heartwood Western Larch 2 4 Heartwood Tamarack 2 4 Heartwood Incising We can improve the penetration of preservative into impermeable wood by making little cuts in the wood. A series of small, shallow slits are cut into the wood by an incising machine. This is an effective way of increasing the treatability of lumber pieces which are predominantly heartwood. Species with heartwood permeability ratings of higher than 3 require high density incising (over 7,500 incisions per square meter). Incising does reduce the strength of lumber and this effect must be taken into account in engineering calculations. Drying to Maximise Treatabilty Unless the purchaser can be assured that lumber for treatment will be air dried to less than 30% moisture content, the specification of KD lumber for preservative treatment is strongly recommended. The problem with treating lumber which is not kiln dried is that the practicalities of production and delivery lead to the potential for poor product quality. The durability of treated Canadian lumber relies on a shell of preservative treatment preventing access by wood-rotting fungi to the untreated core. If the treated shell fails to prevent penetration by checks or abrasion or if the wood-rotting fungus is already in the untreated core, premature failure can result. There are four major pitfalls in treating green lumber: saturated sapwood, frozen lumber, check development and pre-treatment infection. Saturated Sapwood In order for the preservative to penetrate the wood cells, they must be empty of water, that is, the wood must be below 30% moisture content. In green lumber the sapwood cells may be too full of sap to accept any preservative. The sapwood is the part most susceptible to decay and most in need of preservative penetration. Partial air or kiln drying to between 20 and 30% moisture content is ideal, but there is seldom the time or the conditions necessary to do this. Purchasing commercial KD material (maximum 20%) is normally the only option to ensure the sapwood will accept treatment. Frozen Lumber The overwhelming majority of production is treated over the winter to prepare for the spring and summer outdoor construction season. With the exception of coastal British Columbia, most regions of Canada will be dealing with frozen wood at this time. Many treating plants do not have dry kilns, thus material is treated in the condition it is delivered to the plant. Preservative will not penetrate through ice until it is fully thawed. This typically occurs in contact with the treating solution. Frozen green lumber contains a lot of ice and there is insufficient time for this to thaw during typical commercial treating cycles. The residual moisture (12 – 20%) in kiln-dried lumber is in the cell walls and will not impede preservative penetration even if it is frozen. Check Development Checks only develop when the moisture content of wood drops below about 28%. If lumber is treated green and then dries, checks will penetrate the treated zone exposing the untreated core. If lumber is kiln-dried to the in-service moisture content, typically around 16% in exterior exposure, the checks will be largely developed prior to treatment. This means that the checks will be lined with a treated zone and the shell of treatment will remain intact. Pre-treatment Infection A lesser problem than the above three, but still of some concern, is the potential for survival through the manufacturing process of wood-rotting fungi that may have infected in the tree, log or lumber storage stages. At worst, this might only apply to 10% or fewer of pieces. Nevertheless, we have seen examples where treatment of green lumber without application of heat (60°C or more) fails to kill wood-rotting fungi already in the product, leading to premature failure in service. This can occur in as little as 4 years. CCA treatment is a cool process, but most kiln-drying schedules will kill all wood-rotting fungi.

Liquid application: Dip diffusion treatment of green (wet) lumber Dip-diffusion treatment involves immersion of freshly cut lumber, still wet from the tree, in a concentrated solution of preservative. The preservative may be thickened to increase the amount of solution retained on the surface. The lumber is stacked, covered and stored for periods of weeks to allow the preservative to diffuse deep into the wood. In New Zealand, framing lumber has been treated with borates using this process since the 1950s. Dip-diffusion works well with wood species that are mostly sapwood or have wet heartwood. The ratio of the surface area to the volume, the amount of solution retained on the surface, and the solubility of the preservative limit the amount of chemical that can be delivered deep into the wood using this process. For example, a boric acid loading of 0.5% by weight of the wood, sufficient to prevent decay and beetle attack, can be applied to nominal 2 inch lumber using this process. However, a boric acid loading of 2.0% by weight, sufficient to prevent attack by Formosan termites, cannot be achieved without multiple dips and months of storage. Liquid application: Spray treatment of framing Since this type of treatment is typically done during the construction phase, it can be applied to the whole structure or to selected parts of the structure that are anticipated to be at risk from fungal decay or insect attack. Solids and fumigants are not appropriate for these applications, and the only widely used formulations are based on borates. Because the wood is dry at this stage, and because borates require moisture for diffusion, it helps if such treatments are formulated to improve penetration in dry wood. This is usually achieved by adding glycols. Nevertheless, the initial preservative penetration cannot be expected to be as good as that provided by a pressure treatment process. Spray applications of borate are becoming popular in certain regions of the USA as part of termite management systems. Typically, whole house superficial treatments are used to protect against drywood termites and wood boring beetles. This replaces regular fumigation. For subterranean termite protection, concentrated glycol borates may be applied to the bottom two feet of all wood in contact with the slab or, for crawl space construction, two feet up and inwards from the foundation. This replaces a soil barrier. Brush Application Brush applications for surface pre-treatment are basically limited to field-cut preservatives for pressure treated wood and homeowner treatment of structures, presumably with limited life expectancy. Copper naphthenate works well above ground or in ground contact, but its dark green colour (fading to brown after a year or so) is not very appealing. Zinc naphthenate is colourless and can be tinted to suit, but does not work as well in ground contact. Borates are typically used for field cuts on interior sill plates. In addition, borate/glycol mixtures are available for domestic use.

Since remedial treatment is intended to solve a known insect or decay problem, the first thing to do is investigate the extent of the problem and, if necessary, provide temporary structural support. The investigation phase should also identify the causal factors so that these can be eliminated, where possible. Also during the investigation, the parts of the wood that have lost strength may be removed. Be aware that a wood decay fungus may have penetrated well beyond the boundaries of the visibly rotted wood. Since deterioration is underway, a rapid response is normally required. This means that where the deteriorated and infected wood cannot be removed and replaced with sound wood, the remedial treatment must be capable of rapidly penetrating the wood and killing the fungi or insects. Solids Since solids take time to dissolve and move, they are commonly supplemented by liquid treatments for more rapid eradication of the decay fungus or insect. Borate and copper/borate rods are the only solid remedial treatment method available to the homeowner. Liquids, Pastes and Gels Liquids, pastes and gels work rapidly as they do not have to rehydrate or dissolve to start moving and working. Since all visibly decayed wood should be removed wherever possible, these treatments are often used primarily to kill and contain any residual infection inadvertently left behind. Brush or spray applications are quite appropriate for this use. Gels are commonly applied to paint cracks in window joints and to the bottom of door frames, locations where moisture may get into the wood. Where decayed wood is present inside poles and timbers and cannot be removed, liquids, pastes or gels must be inserted deep into the wood for rapid action. Fumigants Gases move the most rapidly and therefore have a faster eradicant action.

Holes drilled to apply depot, supplementary or remedial treatments should be on vertical surfaces or undersides, where possible, to avoid creating additional routes for moisture entry. In the case of supplementary treatment, cut ends should be placed so they are not in ground contact where possible. Holes for treatment should not be drilled below ground level if it can possibly be avoided. All holes should be closed with a tight-fitting plug. Ideally this should be removable to allow re-treatment. Holes for water-soluble treatments should be placed in the right locations to intercept moisture close to its points of entry. Look carefully at the structure and think about moisture sources, water traps, moisture entry points, moisture flow and signs of moisture entry. Moisture sources include direct rainfall, diverted rainfall (via windows, cladding, balcony and walkway surfaces, roof overhangs, flashing, parapets, eavestroughs and downspouts), rain penetration of moisture barriers via nail holes, splits, failure of joints or deterioration of caulking, rain splash, blowing snow, ice dams, condensation, concrete foundations, soil contact, irrigation systems, drain and plumbing leaks. Water traps include metal “shoes”, V joints, checks, appressed boards, cupped horizontal surfaces and anywhere a rim is created at the edge of a horizontal surface. Accumulation of dirt and debris often indicates a water trap. Growth of algae also indicates locations where moisture hangs around longer after rain. Moisture entry points include all locations with end grain, around nails, screws and bolts plus any other holes or penetrations, checks and delaminations. Moisture flow in wood may be 100 to 1000 times faster along than across the grain. Patterns of moisture distribution in wood are therefore commonly elongated cones or lens shapes centred on the point of entry. Signs of moisture entry include swelling, darker colouration, fungal stain, iron stain around fasteners, nail popping and flaking of film-forming surface finishes. Confirmation of moisture contents conducive to decay can be made using electrical-resistance type moisture meters. Capacitance-type moisture meters may also be useful, but these can give erroneous results in the area of metal fittings. Click Here for more information of field treatment

Fortunately for Canada, most of this country lies north of the limit for termites on the North American continent. However, because termites and people both prefer the warmer parts of this country, 20% of Canada’s population live in areas where termites are present. Long winters limit termite activity in the wild, but the warmth provided by our buildings seems to encourage more serious problems in urban environments. Damage caused by the Eastern subterranean termite, (Reticulitermes flavipes Kollar), has reached economically important levels in areas of Toronto and other cities in Southern Ontario. There are some suggestions that the Western subterranean termite, (Reticulitermes hesperus Banks), may be causing significant damage in the Okanagan region of British Columbia. Termites are a much more serious threat in many of our export markets such as the Southeastern USA, Japan and Southeast Asia. While termite control measures appropriate to each region are specified in local and regional building codes, an overview of such measures may be of use to Canadian marketers of wood products and manufactured homes. Termite control measures can be broadly grouped into six categories: Suppression Site Management Soil Barrier Slab/foundation details Structural durability Surveillance and Remediation Click Here for more details on the 6 strategies More Information   Termite Control and Wood-Frame Buildings– 11-page illustrated bulletin from CWC, further covering the 6-point integrated strategy discussed. Includes photos of termite control products. Integrated Control of Subterranean Termites: The 6S Approach. This 20-page Forintek paper introduces and thoroughly discusses the 6-point integrated strategy. Includes very specific design and maintenance advice. Termite Map of North America   Combatting Termites – very short and simple summary fact sheet from Forintek.