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Assessing and Restoration of Decay

Sometimes it happens – wood in service suffers from decay. How can you identify decayed wood and what are the recommended actions to take? First, be sure you actually have decay. The wood may only be harmlessly discoloured, for any number of reasons. See the publication in the side bar for help if your wood is stained but you’re not sure why.

If wood is badly decayed, this will be quite obvious. The wood will be softer than normal and perhaps even be breakable by hand. Decayed wood often has a colour change, either darker or lighter than normal, although this could be due to weathering or could just be a stain. The wood may display an unexpected cracking pattern, or may look stringy- this is a sign of fairly advanced decay. If fungal growth is visible on the surface, the wood has quite likely already suffered strength loss even if this isn’t visibly obvious. However, do not rely on visual cues alone.

Wood can appear stained and yet be sound, or can appear normal yet have already suffered significant strength loss due to decay. Some researchers or engineers use the pick test to determine if the wood is sound. They insert the point of a knife at a shallow angle to the surface and attempt to lever up a thin splinter. If the wood splinters with longer fragments, it is likely sound. If instead it breaks or crumbles in small pieces over the blade, it could be decayed. Decayed wood breaks somewhat like a carrot snapping in half, at one section, versus the splintering along the length of sound wood. See our Biodeterioration page to learn more about the science of decay.

Assessing and Restoration of Decay

If you are still unsure whether or not you have decayed wood, you are advised to seek help from a wood restoration specialist.

How urgent is a decay problem? By the time you notice decay, the wood typically has lost substantial strength already. In cases where the decayed wood is supporting load you are strongly advised to contact a structural engineer or other appropriate expert to more thoroughly assess the problem and proceed with a repair.

A small, localized and non-critical case of decay may be a do-it-yourself project under some conditions. All decayed wood should be removed. If you are unable to remove the entire affected piece, remove the decayed portion plus an additional portion of adjacent wood beyond the visible decay. A rule of thumb is to remove an additional two feet (60 cm) of adjacent wood from each side, although this will of course depend on the extent of the decay. The removal of adjacent wood is because the fungus may have extended deep into the wood beyond the area of decay and may be ready to cause more damage in adjacent sound wood.

Then apply a field treatment to the remaining adjacent wood, such as a borate solution in roll-on, rod or paste form, before replacing the removed pieces. Use treated or naturally durable wood to replace the removed pieces. If damaged wood must be left in place, a penetrating epoxy can sometimes be applied as a stabilizer. In those cases and for best results in all wood repair projects we recommend you consult with a wood restoration expert.

Indoors, it is extremely important that you find the source(s) of the moisture that allowed wood decay fungi to grow. If you had wood decay in a location that is supposed to be dry, then you have a leak or a condensation problem that needs fixing to prevent any future problems. Look for primary and secondary sources of moisture. A short term leak may have allowed decay to start, for example, and condensation may be sustaining the decay. If the location of the decayed wood was outdoors or in a wet location, you need to use treated or naturally durable wood.

If you have building moisture problems on a large scale, you need to hire some experts and be prepared for a potentially substantial remediation project. Seek out a qualified consultant, who will begin by using a variety of techniques and tools to determine the extent of the damage. This will include a visual examination for staining, bulging, cracking, presence of water, and warping. Subsurface moisture penetration will be tested with probes and/or thermography.

In a building with wood structural members, the consultant will probably use a moisture meter to sample wetness of structural wood components in several locations. Based on the results of this investigation, the consultant will recommend a course of action for repair and future prevention. Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation has developed a guide for building envelope rehabilitation, in two volumes: one for owners, one for consultants.

More Information
Click Here for a fact sheet Discolourations on wood products: Causes and Implications for help if your wood is stained and you’re not sure why.
Click here for more information on biodeterioration and the science of decay.
Click here for more information on remedial treatments.
Click here for links on decay assessment and other durability topics

Choosing and Applying Exterior Wood Coatings

Choosing a coating depends on what appearance is desired and what level of maintenance would be tolerable.  For many people, the basic choice is paint versus stain. The trade-off is often between maintenance frequency and appearance.

For many people, additional criteria include VOC emissions, ease of clean up, and cost.  See our Links page for web sites and books with detailed information on choosing and applying wood finishes.  Read our About exterior wood coatings page for an understanding of the differences between paints and stains, pigmented versus clear coatings, and so forth.

Because exterior wood shrinks and swells with moisture changes, the coating needs to be flexible. Flexibility varies by product – some products may be clearly identified as suitably flexible for wood’s dimensional changes.  Water-borne coatings are generally more flexible than alkyds. Coatings containing urethanes tend to be more flexible than coatings containing acrylics.

For factory finishing with transparent coatings, with special considerations for UV and mildew control, please see our fact sheet Factory Finishing with Transparent Coatings: Requirements for Maximizing Longevity.

Special Considerations

If a coating is desired for a wear surface such as a deck or stairs, consult carefully with the coating manufacturer to choose the right product for this demanding application.  All coatings will be challenged by foot traffic and increased exposure to weather in a horizontal application.  High traffic routes will show wear faster than other areas. Paints and other thick film-formers may fail quickly in this situation, and a time-consuming refinishing process will be necessary each time the coating fails.  Hence many people will find a stain the more convenient choice for decks and stairs.

Knots may require a bit of extra care as some wood extractives or resin may leach out or bleed. Extractive bleeding can cause discolouration, but this can usually be prevented by applying special stain-blocking primers. In some species, especially the pines and Douglas-fir, knots and pitch pockets contain resin. The resin can bleed and may discolour the finish, leave hard beads of resin on the surface, or may otherwise interfere with the coating bond. The best way to prevent this is to purchase kiln-dried wood where the resin should be set (hardened and fixed in place). If painting is desired, choose higher grades of lumber as these will have fewer knots, and choose kiln-dried lumber if using a resinous species.

If siding or sidewall shingles are to be painted, the US Forest Products Laboratory (USFPL) recommends they be backprimed.  This application of a coating to the back side will plug the wood pores, preventing extractive bleed without blocking water vapour transmission and also preventing liquid water uptake.

If possible, round out any sharp corners for best coating adhesion on these edges – for example, a square-edged stair tread will show coating degradation quickly, but bullnosed stair tread edges will retain a coating much longer.  This is because a coating applied to a corner tends to pull away from the corner, leaving a much thinner layer there than elsewhere.

Surface Preparation

Durability of any finish is highly dependent on proper application, which includes good preparation of the surface to be coated.  Specific details on surface preparation depend on what condition the wood is to begin with – read on for tips that apply to various scenarios.

Surface Preparation for Fresh Wood

While fresh, clean wood can be coated without surface preparation, a light sanding with 100 grit sandpaper (and dust removal) can double the service life of some water-based coatings. For best results apply a coating to a fresh wood surface as soon as possible after planing or sanding.  If exposed to rain and sun for more than two weeks, adhesion of coatings will not be as good. The surface must also be free of anything that will interfere with coating adhesion, such as dirt, damaged wood fibres and moisture. Grade stamps on wood should also be removed before applying a semitransparent stain, preferably by sanding.

Cleaning

If there are discolourations caused by dirt, iron stains or other discolourations on the wood surface, cleaning may be desired. It is always preferable to achieve cleaning with sanding when possible.  Another safe way to clean wood without damaging the surface is to simply use a garden hose, with or without a pressure nozzle.  Use pressure-washing only with extreme care as it can damage wood, especially low-density species such as western red cedar.  The pressure should be kept at a minimum, and never hold the nozzle in one place for a long time.  If necessary, use a little bit of dish detergent, and lightly scrub (not with steel wool, as this will leave iron stains) in the direction of the grain for any stubborn discolourations.  For discolourations that resist soap-and-water cleaning, chemical cleaners will be effective.  The chemicals in commercial wood cleaners can be caustic soda (sodium hydroxide), sodium metasilicate, oxalic acid, citric acid, phosphoric acid, borax or some mixture. Wood cleaners containing caustic soda at a 1% –  2% solution will remove nearly all discolourations with the least damage to wood. Some acid cleaners are especially effective for removing extractive stains and iron stain.  Bleach is commonly used for cleaning wood, but we do not recommend this, since a poor wood substrate will usually be left behind for subsequent coating.  Resin (pine pitch) can be generally removed with mineral spirits. Please note that all acidic or alkaline chemicals need to be thoroughly rinsed off before coating. Chemicals can be toxic, corrosive and harmful, so handle all these chemicals with care and follow all manufacturer’s instructions.

Surface Preparation for Aged Wood

Wood coatings need a fresh surface or the coating simply won’t last. The longer wood has been allowed to weather, the poorer the coating adhesion. If a fresh surface is allowed to weather or age outdoors for more than two weeks, coating adhesion will deteriorate. This is mainly due to wood damage from sunlight. Weathered wood surfaces usually have a higher acidity, higher contact angle, and lower surface energy.

Restoring an aged wood surface is necessary before applying a coating.  The damaged (aged/weathered) wood fibres must be removed, exposing fresh wood.  Also, any discolourations will typically be removed along with the damaged fibres, so the process of restoration is simultaneously a cleaning process.  Wood restoration can be achieved with sanding or with chemicals, but sanding is always preferable when possible.  Sanding can be done by hand or machine until the true wood colour shows. Then brush off the sawdust and apply the coating immediately.  For many jobs, a chemical method will be far easier.  Read the label of each product to identify the active components.  In general, caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) is the best chemical choice for both cleaning and restoration.  It effectively removes weathered wood fibres from the surface and leaves the surface at a suitable pH for coating.  Oxalic acid is also commonly identified as a wood restorer, however, it is only effective at discolouration removal and does not remove the damaged wood fibres from the surface – in other words, it is not restoring the wood to be an appropriate substrate for a coating.  However, oxalic acid can be used to return the original wood colour after the use of sodium hydroxide.  Sodium hydroxide will slightly darken the wood, and, if this is undesirable, simply rinse the wood with oxalic acid after restoration with sodium hydroxide.  Please note that all these chemicals must be handled with care and all manufacturer’s instructions should be followed, as the chemicals can be toxic, corrosive and harmful. Where the wood is close to plants, wet down the leaves with a garden hose prior to and after chemical use. Wood surfaces should also be thoroughly rinsed with water before coating.

Maintenance

Maintaining a coating means giving it a wash occasionally, watching for signs that the coating is losing integrity, and applying a fresh coat before full failure sets in.  If a coating is reapplied before the last coat has failed, the stripping process may not be necessary. It’s time to apply another coat when paint has worn down to the primer, or if the coating colour has undesirably faded, or if the surface of water-repellent treated wood no longer beads water.  Then wash or brush off dirt and apply a new coat.  Any areas showing failure (the coating has lifted from the surface or cracked, or bare wood is showing) can be spot-treated.  Remove any loose pieces of paint and use sandpaper to feather the edges of adjacent sound paint so the transition won’t be evident through the new paint layer.  Also sand away any weathered wood.  For large scale failure, refinishing will be necessary. For all coating systems, there is a limit to the number of coats a surface can support. When the coating gets too thick, refinishing will also become necessary.

Refinishing

Refinishing a coating means stripping off the old coating and starting over.  This is necessary when large areas of the coating have failed, or the coating is getting too thick for refinishing, or if a decision is made to change the type of coating.  A coating has failed when it no longer adheres to the wood surface.  If the coating has bubbled, cracked, or peeled, it must be removed.  If the coating has simply faded but otherwise appears to still be well-bonded, it may not need to be removed.  When a change of coating type is desired, the new coating may be incompatible with the old coating – to ensure a good bond for the new coating, strip off the old one.  Remove coatings by sanding or with a chemical product.  Sanding has advantages over chemical stripping in restoring the fresh wood surface, but even if sanding is done by machine, it is still very labour-intensive for large painted areas typical of outdoor projects.  Sandblasting is not recommended except for large timbers and logs, as it will pit the wood and is hard to keep away from elements like window frames.  Powerwashing will only remove loose paint, leaving behind paint that is still adhered.  So, a chemical approach is generally regarded as the most effective and least labour-intensive way to strip a coating.  Sodium hydroxide at a 6% –  8% dilution is the recommended chemical for stripping – and offers the additional benefits of cleaning discolourations and restoring the wood surface at the same time.  Products containing sodium hydroxide are corrosive and should be prevented from touching skin. Follow manufacturers’ instructions.  There are also other chemical products for stripping coatings in the market.  After stripping with chemicals, always give the wood a final rinse with water.  Many projects will still require some light sanding around stubborn stains or heavily damaged wood.

Factory Finishing

  • Select heartwood where possible to minimize nutrient content of wood surfaces and prevent nutrients migrating through the coating to support fungal growth on the surface.
  • Round all corners to minimum 5 mm radius to eliminate sharp edges where coating can thin out.
  • Prepare surface by sanding with 100 grit sandpaper to physically and chemically activate the surface.  Pretreatment and coating should be applied immediately after sanding. Research shows sanding can double coating life.
  • Pretreat with an aqueous formulation containing a UV absorber designed to absorb the visible light that must penetrate transparent coatings to permit the wood to be visible. If the subsequent coating is not completely opaque to UV light, a hindered amine light stabilizer should be added to the visible light protection system. Not only does a visible light protection system prevent degradation of the wood-coating interface, it also prevents release of lignin breakdown products that can be used as a food source by black-stain fungi and prevents light induced breakdown of the biocide components. This pre-treatment must also contain three low-dose carbon-based biocides with differing chemistries to provide cross protection against detoxification and with complementary spectra of activity providing resistance to the full range of black-stain fungi. It should ideally have water repellent properties and must maintain wood surface pH close to neutral or slightly alkaline.
  • Apply a transparent water-based catalyzed urethane coating, containing organic and inorganic UV absorbers with absorbance that extends from UVB through to the high-energy part of the visible spectrum (violet light). The coating must virtually eliminate UV from penetrating to the wood, preventing breakdown of wood, biocides and water repellents. This coating will be formulated to be damp-wood friendly to allow application soon after pre-treatment. It will contain no nutrients for fungal growth. It must have an optimum combination of moisture excluding efficiency and vapour permeability to minimize moisture uptake and allow drying after rain. The first coat to be designed to penetrate and bond to the wood, subsequent coats to be designed to ensure maximum intercoat adhesion without sanding between coats. Sufficient coats to be applied to give a film thickness no less than 60 microns to minimize the ability of black-stain fungi to penetrate the film with their infection pegs. The surface layer to have sheeting rather than beading properties to ensure rapid drying after rain or dew, reducing the time available for spore germination.

Additional detailed information on coating wood surfaces has been assembled by the Joint Coatings and Forest Products Committee (http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/pdf2004/fpl_2004_bonura001.pdf, 2004).

Performance Factors

How long will an exterior wood coating last?  Anywhere from a few months to 20 years or more, depending on the choice of product, how it was applied, and how severe the environment.

Paints tend to last the longest, assuming they are applied properly (see Choosing and applying exterior wood coatings page).  But the range of lifespan for a paint coating is very large.  A low quality product badly applied to a weathered wood surface may barely last two years.  If everything is done right, the coating might last 20 years.  High quality paints and stains generally last longest, and coatings that are in locations protected from sunlight and water tend to last longer.

Stains and water repellents have much shorter lives than paints, but are easier to maintain.  This is one of the reasons they are a popular choice for stairs and decks.  Depending on the degree of exposure to sun, water, foot traffic, and the pigment amount in the stain, expect a life of 1 to 2 years for a stain applied to deck boards and 2 to 5 for a stain applied to products that are not subject to wear.  Water repellents generally last 6 to 12 months.

Results from numerous tests on exterior wood finishes by many experts in this field, particularly by the US Forest Products Lab (USFPL), are summarized below.  See the USFPL link for more information.

Effect of wood anatomy

  • Coatings, particularly solid colour stains and paints tend to last longer on dimensionally stable species such as western red cedar, eastern white cedar and Alaska yellow cedar, as these will shrink and swell less than other species and will therefore put less stress on the coating bond.  However deck stains will not last as long on low density species such as western red cedar due to wear.
  • Coatings last longer on wood with narrow latewood bands (the dark part of the annual ring) due to density differences between the earlywood (the light part of the ring) and the denser latewood.  The southern pines are characterized by their wide bands of latewood, and therefore these species are considered to be somewhat poor for painting.
  • The amount of extractives or resin in wood also affects coating performance. Special primers can be used to block water-soluble extractives, and kiln drying is most effective for fixing resin in wood.  Nutrients in wood can migrate through the coating to support fungal growth on the surface, and heartwood can be chosen to minimize the nutrient content in wood.

Effect of grain

  • Finishes last longer on vertical (also called edge grain) versus flat grain, as these surfaces will shrink and swell less and therefore put less stress on the coating bond.  However, it can be difficult to specify type of grain when ordering a product.  Western red cedar and redwood may be available in a premium grade, which will likely be all heartwood, vertical grain.
  • If using flat grain, place it bark side out or up if possible, because the grain is less likely to raise on that side, particularly in species with dense latewood bands such as the southern pines, and raised grain is a problem for coating adhesion. This is not an issue when using vertical grain products. Placing bark side out also minimizes checking.

Effect of surface roughness

  • Rough-sawn (saw-textured) or roughened wood creates a better coating bond and thicker coating buildup than smooth wood.  The life of a coating can be substantially extended if the wood is roughened.

Effect of sanding

  • Sanding (100 grit) can double the life of a coating, for both weathered and freshly planed wood.  This is because sanding removes any damaged surface fibres and also changes the surface chemistry to improve bonding of the coating.

Effect of wood preservatives

  • Semitransparent stains last longer when applied to CCA-treated wood – treated wood purchased prior to 2004 was probably treated with CCA.  Research is under way on finishing for wood treated with new preservatives. Protection measures regarding use of treated wood apply when coating preservative-treated wood.

Effect of bluestain

  • Bluestain is caused by fungi, and bluestained wood is more permeable than unstained wood, therefore it may absorb more coating.  Make sure to apply sufficient coating.

Effect of weathering

  • Sunlight quickly degrades the ability of a wood surface to bond with a coating.  Research has shown a tremendous difference in paint performance on weathered versus unweathered wood.  Paint on boards with no exposure to weather prior to painting lasted at least 20 years.  Boards that had weathered for 16 weeks prior to painting began showing cracks in just 3 years.  For maximum coating life, sand the surface if the wood has been exposed to any sunlight at all, particularly if for more than two weeks.

Effect of product manufacturing

  • Plywood:  Coatings on plywood are challenged by the small cracks (face checks) on the surface that are caused by the lathe when the veneer is cut from the log during manufacturing.  As the plywood goes through moisture cycling outdoors, these cracks tend to get larger and stress the coating bond.  Plywood surface, edges and joints in outdoor applications should be protected, and coatings and other products for helping plywood resist cracking can be applied to prevent moisture ingress.  Generally a good stain can effectively protect plywood. Since checking in stained plywood usually occurs during the first six months of outdoor exposure, best coating results can be obtained by applying a first coat and allowing any checking to occur, then six months or so later applying a second coat.  Paints can fail quickly on plywood, unless efforts are made to reduce moisture uptake and also to use flexible products to accommodate dimensional changes of the wood. Roughening the surface is also important. For plywood protection and other issues with plywood, see the recommendations from the Canadian Plywood Association (http://www.canply.org/pdf/main/plywood_handbookcanada.pdf).
  • Finger-jointed products: Coatings may perform differently on different parts of these products, as they are not likely to be uniform in grain orientation, in heartwood versus sapwood content, or even in species.  Roughen the surface to extend the life of the coating and minimize these differences. Apply primer and paint all sides if possible to minimize moisture absorption.

Effect of priming

  • Field tests have shown that coatings last much longer when a primer coat is used.
  • Field tests have shown that siding or shingles last much longer if they are back-primed.

Effect of design and installation

  • Use good design and installation practices to protect wood from sunlight and water, and prevent moisture accumulation in wood structures.
  • By providing adequate clearance to grade, adequate roof overhang, rainscreen wall and back-priming, the coating life on siding can be effectively extended.
  • If using flat grain, place the bark side out if possible to avoid raised grain.
  • Use corrosion-resistant fasteners.

Finishing Quick Tips

For new wood, remember:

  • The wood must be dry.  Drying time depends on a few factors.
    • Ideally the wood should be kiln-dried (stamped “S-DRY”, “KD” or “KDAT”, see glossary of “dry lumber”). If the wood is surface wet from rain or washing, let dry 1 to 2 days.
    • If the wood is wet through (green lumber, pressure-treated lumber not stamped “KDAT”), 2 days of drying is acceptable if using a “damp-friendly” coating.  Otherwise:
    • The wood must be allowed to thoroughly dry to a stable outdoor moisture content; about 15% in most climates. The characteristics of the wood and the climatic characteristics of its environment are so variable that drying time is hard to predict.  The common way to determine wood moisture content is with a moisture meter. (Note: specific correction factors should be applied if a moisture meter is used on preservative-treated wood.)
  • Weather conditions during coating application can affect the coating’s drying, appearance and performance. Follow the coating manufacturer’s recommendation.
  • Coat as soon as possible after the wood has been planed or sanded.  Apply finishes within two weeks of exposure, or sooner if possible (Surface Preparation for Fresh Wood).  Otherwise, follow the instructions for aged (weathered) wood below.
  • If the wood is very smooth, lightly sand it to roughen the surface with 100-120 grit sand paper.  This greatly improves the coating bond.  Brush free of dirt and sawdust.
  • If painting the wood, apply a primer coat. Use an extractive-blocking primer, if needed (for example, with western red cedar or redwood) over the entire piece, or a knot sealing primer if needed (Special Considerations).  When dry, apply two coats of top quality paint. For stains and water repellents, follow the  instructions on the can regarding number of coats.
  • Carefully follow the instructions on the can regarding best environmental conditions for coating, application recommendations, safety precautions and clean-up.

For aged (weathered) wood, remember:

  • For wood that has been previously coated, please read about refinishing.
  • Clean the wood and remove discolourations such as iron stain, if desired.  Expose fresh wood because coatings perform best when applied to freshly exposed wood surfaces.  Allow to dry. See Surface Preparation for Aged Wood.
  • Brush free of dirt and sawdust, and proceed with application of the coating.

When maintaining or refinishing, remember:

  • Avoid the need to refinish by keeping an eye on the coating and adding a fresh coat before the previous coat wears away, cracks or peels.  This may be as frequent as every six months with water repellents, every year or two with stains, and every few years with paint (See Maintenance).
  • Spot-treat worn areas to extend the period between full applications of a fresh coat.  Sand away any failed coating and any weathered wood, and re-apply the coating (See Maintenance).
  • If the coating has failed on a large scale, or the coating is getting too thick for refinishing, or if a change in type of coating is desired, completely strip away the old coating – please read about refinishing.

Glossary

Acrylic

A type of water-borne coating product containing acrylic polymers.

Alkyd

A type of polyester resin. Term often used to signify solvent-borne coatings, e.g., oil paints.

Backpriming

The application of a finish coat to the back side of wood such as shingles or siding.

Binder

The non-volatile film-forming solid portion in a coating, which binds the pigment particles together after the film is dry and creates the bond with the substrate.  Typical binders include alkyd resins, acrylic resins and polyurethane resins.

Bleeding

When the colour of a discolouration or other material works up through a coating to the surface.  Commonly used to describe leaching of tannins in extractive species like western red cedar and redwood (typically happens for the first year or so if not stain blocked).

Blistering

When a coating forms bubbles due to air, water vapour or solvent under the film.

Dry lumber

Lumber which has been dried to a moisture content of 19% or less. Any 4” and thinner boards or dimension lumber surfaced at a moisture content (MC) of 19% or less may be stamped “S-DRY” and stamped “KD” if kiln-dried to a maximum moisture content of 19%.  Lumber in the USA may be stamped “KDAT” if kiln-dried after pressure treatment with preservatives.

Enamel

Generic term for an alkyd-based pigmented coating that dries to a smooth, hard, glossy finish.  The term is often more broadly used for a coating which gives a hard, stain-resistant film.

Extractives

Soluble chemicals particularly present in the heartwood of some species which provide the wood with resistance to decay and insects.

Fungicide

A substance which inhibits the growth of fungus.  Often added to coatings to protect the coatings themselves from fungal growth.

Latex

Term used to signify water-borne paints.

Lacquer

Coating material characterized by rapid evaporation of the solvent to produce a thin, hard film.

Linseed oil

Obtained by crushing flax seeds, this natural oil can be used as a vehicle in paints, as a softening agent for the resins in varnishes, or can be used alone as a wood finish material.  Raw linseed oil is a food source for fungi and must be boiled to destroy these nutrients. Most “boiled” linseed oil is not boiled but contains metallic dryers and biocides.

Oil-based paints

Paints using natural oils such as linseed or tung oil as the binder, with turpentine as the usual solvent.  The term is now usually used to refer to paints with both alkyds and oil as the binders, and with a carrier of mineral spirits or other solvents.

Paint

An opaque coating generally made with a binder, liquids, additives and pigments. Applied in liquid form, it dries to form a continuous film that protects and improves the appearance of the substrate.

Pigment

Finely ground solids that impart colour, hiding power (opacity) and ultraviolet protection.

Pitch

Also called resin, this sticky substance is a mixture of rosin and turpentine and is found in most softwoods but particularly the pines, spruces and Douglas-fir.  Can ooze from the pitch pockets and sometimes the knots for a year or two if not set by kiln-drying.  Resin can bleed through finishes and will harden into beads, but this can be cleaned up with mineral spirits and will stop eventually.

Primer

The first complete coat of paint applied in a painting system. Many primers are designed to enhance adhesion between the surface and subsequent topcoats. Most primers contain some pigment, some lend uniformity to the topcoat, some inhibit corrosion of the substrate, and some stop the discolouration of the topcoat.

Resin

For tree resin, see Pitch. In coatings, see Binder.

Sealer

A liquid that seals wood pores so they will not absorb subsequent coats.  Sealers may be transparent, and can act as primers. Some sealers are designed to be left uncoated.

Semi-transparent stain

Stain that alters the natural colour of the wood, yet allows the grain and texture to show through. The term is generally applied to exterior products, but technically applies also to interior wiping stains used for trim, furniture and floors.

Shellac

Alcohol-soluble, clear to orange-coloured resin derived from lac, a substance secreted by insects.  Previously used as a sealer and clear finish for floors, for sealing knots, and in “alcohol-borne” primers; rarely in use anymore. Thinner is denatured alcohol. It is an environmentally friendly product and usually available from finish suppliers.

Solid-colour stain

Exterior stain that obscures the natural colour and grain of wood, but still allows the texture to show through – essentially, a thin paint.

Stain

A coating product which can either be opaque such as a solid colour stain or partly transparent such as a semi-transparent stain. Also refers to wood discolourations such as discolourations caused by tannins in wood extractives, or stain caused by fungi such as bluestain.

Solvent

In generic coatings terminology, refers to the volatile liquid used to improve the working properties of a coating, typically water or hydrocarbons.  In “solvent-borne” coatings, refers specifically to a coating based on hydrocarbons.

Tung oil

Obtained from the nut of the Asian tung tree. Hardly ever used in the raw state as it dries to a non-lustrous finish.  Used in varnishes.

Varnish

Generic term for clear film-forming finish. Transparent or translucent liquids applied as a thin film, which harden.  Can be solvent or water-borne.

VOC

Volatile organic compound.  VOCs are organic chemical compounds that have high enough vapour pressures under normal conditions to significantly vaporize and enter the atmosphere where they may participate in photochemical reactions. They are often associated with solvents, typically considered to be pollutants, and are the subject of regulations in many jurisdictions.

Canadian Preservation Industry

Canada has had a wood preservation industry for about 100 years.  Canada is tied with the UK as the world’s second largest producer of treated wood (the USA is first, by a large margin).  In 1999, the most recent year for which we have data, Canada produced 3.5 million cubic metres of treated wood.  There are about 65 treating plants in Canada.

As with most other industrialized countries, Canada developed a wood preservation industry using creosote, initially to service railroads (the ties holding the rails) and then utilities (power poles).  Creosote production began declining by the 1950s, and by the 1970s was being somewhat replaced for these traditional uses by pentachlorophenol.  Today, these oil-borne preservatives only constitute 17% of Canadian treated wood production.

The remaining 83% of production uses water-borne preservatives such as CCA, ACQ and CA.  The industry began its substantial shift to the water-borne products in the 1970s, as consumer interest in decks and other residential outdoor structures dramatically increased.  For many years, CCA was by far the dominant preservative for both residential and industrial applications.

In 2004, CCA regulations were changed such that CCA is no longer available for many residential applications.  Subsequently, Canadian treaters have shifted about 80% of their previous CCA production to ACQ or CA.

Most of Canada’s treated wood is used domestically; Canada exports only 10% of its production.

Canada has its own wood preservation standards, supports several technical and marketing organizations, and maintains a lead position in certain areas of wood preservation research.  A major focus of the industry has been in response to increasing levels of health and environmental protection regulations.

Durability Research and Development

FPInnovations has been field testing the performance of treated wood products for years. Click one of these categories for performance data from our field tests.

Borate-treated Wood vs. Termites

Durability Research and Development
Round Wood Posts

Durability Research and Development
Sawn Wood Posts

 

 

 

 

 

Durability Research and Development
Lumber vs. termites

Durability Research and Development
Shakes

 

 

 

 

 

Durability Research and Development
Marine Pilings

Durability Research and Development
Field Cuts

 

 

 

 

 

Naturally Durable Species

The heartwood of species reported to have some natural durability was evaluated in ground contact (stakes) and above-ground (decking) tests. 

Durability Research and Development

Commodity: 2×4 and 2×6 lumber from naturally durable species: Western redcedar, yellow cypress, eastern white cedar, larch, tamarack, Douglas-fir

Control species: Ponderosa pine sapwood

Test method: Stake test (AWPA E7) and Decking test (AWPA E25)

Test sites: FPInnovations – Maple Ridge, BC; Petawawa, ON

Michigan Technological University – Gainesville, Florida; Kipuka, Hawaii 

Date of installation: 2004-2005

 

Estimated service life: In the ground-contact stake test, after 5 years moderate to high levels of decay were found in all species at all sites. Yellow cypress and western redcedar were the most durable at all site. Eastern white cedar had similar durability at the Canadian and Florida sites, but was less durable in Hawaii. There were no major performance differences observed between old-growth and second-growth materials used in this study. Untreated naturally durable heartwood is not recommended for long-term performance in ground contact.

In the above ground decking test, at the Canadian test sites after 10 years only small amounts of decay were observed in any of the naturally durable heartwoods tested. In contrast, the ponderosa pine controls had moderate to advanced decay. Decay was more rapid at the Florida and Hawaii test sites, with moderate to advanced decay present in all material types after 7 years. Untreated naturally durable heartwood is not recommended for long-term performance in exposed above ground applications in high decay hazard areas such as Florida and Hawaii. However, in temperate climates these naturally durable heartwoods can provide service lives greater than 10 years.

References:

Morris, P. I., Ingram, J., Larkin, G., & Laks, P. (2011). Field tests of naturally durable species. Forest Products Journal61(5), 344-351.

Morris, P. I., Laks, P., Larkin, G., Ingram, J. K., & Stirling, R. (2016). Aboveground decay resistance of selected Canadian softwoods at four test sites after 10 years of exposure. Forest products journal66(5), 268-273.

Wood’s Durable Heritage

There’s no reason a wood structure can’t last virtually forever – or, at least hundreds of years, far longer than we may actually need the building. With a good understanding of how to protect wood from decay and fire, we can expect today’s wood buildings to be around for as long as we wish.

While wood does not have the historical longevity of stone, there nonetheless remain standing some very old wood buildings. In Europe, wood was long a dominant building material dating back to the beginning of civilisation. Most of these ancient buildings are long gone, lost to fire, decay, or deconstruction for another purpose. In the early days of wood construction, the primary structural components were placed directly in the ground, which eventually leads to decay. It was not until sometime in the 1100s that builders began to use stone footings – thus our still-standing examples of wood buildings generally date from no earlier than that time.

Perhaps the most famous ancient European wood buildings still in evidence today are the Norwegian stave churches, hundreds of which were built in the 12th and 13th centuries and of which 25-30 still remain today. Their exterior claddings have typically been replaced, but the structural wood is original.

Wood’s Durable Heritage
The Urnes stave church (c. 1150) in Sogn og Fjordane County is Norway’s oldest. Photo source

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In North America, the abundance of wood and the existing timber skills of early settlers led to widespread use of wood – wood has always been and still is the primary structural material for small buildings here. The oldest surviving wood homes in the US date to the early 1600s. Nearly 80 homes remain from this era in the New England states.

Wood’s Durable Heritage
The Fairbanks House (c. 1636) in Dedham, Massachusetts, USA, is the oldest surviving timber frame house in North America. It was built for Jonathan and Grace Fairebanke and was occupied by them and seven succeeding generations of the family until the early twentieth century. The Fairbanks family still owns the property. The house is open as a museum. Photo source.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Many other North American wood buildings survive from the 18th century. Even in the demanding climate of Louisiana, where hot and humid conditions present a challenge for wood durability, one can still find some of the original French settlements dating to the first half of the 1700s. And of course, there are countless standing wood buildings from the 1800s and early 1900s, most of which are probably still occupied.

Wood’s Durable Heritage
The Parlange Plantation (c. 1750) in Pointe Coupée Parish, Louisiana, USA, was built by the Marquis Vincent de Ternant and remains in the possession of his descendants, the Parlange family. This large plantation home was constructed of bousilliage (mud, moss and deer hair) and cypress wood set over a hand-made brick raised basement. Photo source.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Japan has a well-known history of wood use and is the home of the oldest surviving wood structure in the world, a Buddhist temple near the ancient capital city of Nara. The Horyu-ji temple is believed to have been built at the beginning of the eighth century (c. 711) and possibly even earlier, as one of the hinoki (Japanese cypress) posts appears to have been felled in the year 594. This temple’s longevity is largely helped by careful maintenance and repair. This entire region of Japan has many other ancient wood buildings still standing.

 

Wood’s Durable Heritage
The Horyu-ji temple at Nara

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For modern buildings, we don’t normally require such exceptional longevity. The life of a typical North American house is no more than 100 years (the average is lower), and our non-residential buildings are usually demolished in 50 years or less. Wood is perfectly suitable for these lifetime expectations. Click here for survey data showing that wood buildings last as long, or longer than buildings made of other materials.

Reference:
Architecture in Wood: A History of Wood Building and Its Techniques in Europe and North America. Hans Jrgen Hansen, Ed., Faber and Faber, London, 1971..

Case Studies

1865 House, Vancouver BC

Wood’s Durable Heritage

 

 

 

 

Irving House is a large, one and one-half storey plus basement wood-frame residence, designed in the Gothic Revival style, located on its original site at the corner of Royal Avenue and Merivale Street in the New Westminster neighbourhood of Albert Crescent. Irving House is remarkable for the extent to which its original exterior and interior elements have been maintained. Operated as an historic house museum, it also includes a collection of many original furnishings from the Irving family.

Irving House
Location 302 Royal Avenue, New Westminster, B.C.
Completion of Construction 1865
Other Information Original owner – Captain William and Elizabeth Jane Irving
Current Status Heritage of New Westminster
Construction Method Platform-Frame
Style Gothic Revival style
Framing 2-inch Douglas Fir lumber
Cladding Wide lapped Redwood weatherboard siding and wooden trim
Comdition No signs of decay on any framing members
Major Repair 1880

By courtesy of New Westminster Museum and Archives, New Westminster, British Columbia

Other link: http://www.flickr.com/photos/bobkh/297751638/in/set-72157594340707368/

1912 House, Vancouver BC

Wood’s Durable Heritage

 

 

 

 

This classic turn-of-the-century home was slated for demolition in 1990. It was already stripped back to the bare framing when it was purchased by a new owner who wished to convert it into apartments. At the new owner’s request, the building was inspected by Dr. Paul Morris of Forintek in 1991 for signs of deterioration. After 80 years in service there were no signs of decay on any of the framing members nor the window frames, most of which were original.

1912 House
Location Vancouver
Date of Construction 1912 (estimated)
Original Records Water service 1909
On City File 1915
Other Information Original owner – Henry B. Ford
Current Status Vancouver Heritage Resource Inventory
Construction Method Platform-Frame
Style Heritage, with multiple pitched roofs & wide overhangs
Framing Rough green full 2-inch Douglas Fir lumber
Sheathing Rough green Douglas Fir boards
Building Paper Asphalt-impregnated paper
Cladding Western Red Cedar shakes
Western Red Cedar siding
Roofing Western Red Cedar shakes (new in 1991)
Condition No signs of decay on any framing members

Temple at Nara, Japan

The Horyuji Buddhist temple at Nara is probably the oldest wooden structure in the world. Nara became the first permanent capital of Japan in 710.

Wood’s Durable Heritage

 

 

 

 

 

Horyuji Buddhist temple at Nara
Location Nara, Japan
Date of Construction 670 – 714 (Estimated)
Original Records Built on site of original temple from 607
Other Information Original owner – Prince Shotoku
Current Status World Cultural Heritage Building
Construction Method Heavy Timber
Style 2-inch Douglas-fir lumber
Framing Hinoki (Durable – Japanese cypress)
Roofing Multi-tiered roof with Clay tile
Condition No signs of decay on any framing members
Maintenance Schedule Major repairs every 100 years, rebuilt every 300 years

Wood Advantages

Wood is resistant to some of the chemicals destructive to steel and concrete. For example, wood is often the material of choice when exposed to: organic compounds, hot or cold solutions of acids or neutral salts, dilute acids, industrial stack gases, sea air and high relative humidity. Because of its resistance to chemicals wood is often used in the following applications:

  • Potash storage buildings
  • Salt storage domes
  • Cooling towers
  • Industrial tanks for various types of chemicals

With thoughtful design and careful workmanship wood bridges prove to be remarkably durable. Throughout the world, there are numerous examples of long lasting wooden bridges – both historic and modern. Modern bridge decks are subjected to relentless attack of de-icing chemicals, and wood is gaining acceptance as a viable option for these applications.

Pilings that are constantly submerged in fresh water have been known to last for centuries. Foundation piles under structures will not decay if the water table remains higher than the pile tops. Many of the world’s important structures are built on wood piles including much of the city of Venice and the Empire State Building in New York.

Mid-Rise Buildings

In the early 1900s, light-frame wood construction and heavy timber, up to ten-storeys in height, was commonplace in major cities throughout Canada. The longevity and continued appeal of these buildings types is apparent in the fact that many of them are still in use today. Over the past decade, there has been a revival in the use of wood for taller buildings in Canada, including mid-rise light-frame wood construction up to six-storeys in height.

Mid-rise light-frame wood construction is more than basic 2×4 framing and wood sheathing panels. Advances in wood science and building technology have resulted in stronger, safer, more sophisticated engineered building products and systems that are expanding the options for wood construction, and providing more choices for builders and designers. Modern mid-rise light-frame wood construction in incorporates well researched and safe solutions. The engineering design and technology that has been developed and brought to market is positioning Canada as a leader in the mid-rise wood-frame construction industry.

In 2009, via its provincial building codes, British Columbia became the first province in Canada to allow mid-rise buildings to be made from wood. Since this change to the British Columbia Building Code (BCBC), which increased the permissible height for wood frame residential buildings from four- to six-storeys, more than 300 of these structures have been completed or are underway with BC. In 2013 and 2015, Québec, Ontario, and Alberta, respectively, also moved to permit mid-rise wood-frame construction up to six-storeys in height. These regulatory changes indicate that there is clear market confidence in this type of construction.

Scientific evidence and independent research has shown that mid-rise wood-frame buildings can meet performance requirements in regard to structural integrity, fire safety, and life safety. That evidence has now also contributed to the addition of new prescriptive provisions for wood construction, as well as paved the way for future changes that will include more permissible uses and ultimately greater permissible heights for wood buildings. As a result of this research, and the successful implementation of many mid-rise wood-frame residential buildings, primarily in British Columbia and Ontario, the Canadian Commission on Building and Fire Codes (CCBFC) approved similar changes to the National Model Construction Codes. The 2015 edition of the National Building Code of Canada (NBC) permits the construction of six-storey residential, business, and personal services buildings using traditional combustible construction materials. The NBC changes recognize the advancements in wood products and building systems, as well as in fire detection, suppression, and containment systems.

In relation to mid-rise wood-frame buildings, several changes to the 2015 NBC are designed to further reduce the risks posed by fire, including:

  • increased use of automatic sprinklers in concealed areas in residential buildings;
  • increased use of sprinklers on balconies;
  • greater water supply for firefighting purposes; and
  • 90 percent noncombustible or limited-combustible exterior cladding on all storeys.

Most mid-rise wood-frame buildings are located in the core of smaller municipalities and in the inner suburbs of larger ones, offering economic and sustainability advantages. Mid-rise wood-frame construction supports the goals of many municipalities; densification, affordable housing to accommodate a growing population, sustainability in the built environment and resilient communities.

Many of these buildings have employed light-frame wood construction from the ground up, with a five- or six-storey wood-frame structure being constructed on a concrete slab-on-grade, or on top of a concrete basement parking garage; others have been constructed above one- or two-storeys of noncombustible commercial occupancy.

Mid-rise wood buildings are inherently more complex and involve the adaptation of structural and architectural details that address considerations related to structural, acoustic, thermal and fire performance design criteria. Several key aspects of design and construction that become more critical in this new generation of mid-rise wood buildings include:

  • increased potential for cumulative shrinkage and differential movement between different types of materials, as a result of the increased building height;
  • increased, dead, live, wind and seismic loads that are a consequence of taller building height;
  • requirements for continuous stacked shearwall layouts;
  • increased fire-resistance ratings for fire separations, as required for buildings of greater height and area;
  • ratings for sound transmission, as required for buildings of multi-family residential occupancy, as well as other uses;
  • potential for longer exposure to the elements during construction;
  • mitigation of risk related to fire during construction; and
  • modified construction sequencing and coordination, resulting from the employment of prefabrication technologies and processes.

There are many alternative approaches and solutions to these new design and construction considerations that are associated with mid-rise wood construction systems. Reference publications produced by the Canadian Wood Council provide more detailed discussion, case studies and details for mid-rise design and construction techniques.

 

For further information, refer to the following resources:

Mid-Rise Best Practice Guide (Canadian Wood Council)

2015 Reference Guide: Mid-Rise Wood Construction in the Ontario Building Code (Canadian Wood Council)

Mid-Rise 2.0 – Innovative Approaches to Mid-Rise Wood Frame Construction (Canadian Wood Council)

Mid-Rise Construction in British Columbia (Canadian Wood Council)

National Building Code of Canada

Wood Design Manual (Canadian Wood Council)

CSA O86 Engineering design in wood

Wood for Mid-Rise Construction (Wood WORKS! Atlantic)

Fire Safety and Security: A Technical Note on Fire Safety and Security on Construction Sites in British Columbia/Ontario (Canadian Wood Council)

Mid-Rise FAQs

What do the experts have to say about wood-frame mid-rise construction?

Is mid-rise and tall wood building construction a new phenomenon:

Wood-frame and heavy timber construction (up to ten storeys) was the norm in the early 1900’s, and many of these buildings still exist and are in use in many Canadian cities.

Over the past 10 years, there is a revival in the use of wood for both mid-rise (up to six-storeys) and tall buildings. In British Columbia alone, as of December 2013, there were over 250 five- and six-storey wood product based mid-rise buildings either in the design or construction phase.

Why have code change proposals?

This 2015 building code change is not about favoring wood over other building materials; it’s about acknowledging, via the highly thorough code process, that science-based innovation in wood products and building systems can and will lead to more choices for builders and occupants.

Are these buildings safe?

Regardless of the building material in question, nothing gets built unless it meets code. Mid-rise wood-frame buildings reflect a new standard of engineering in that structural, fire and seismic concerns have all been addressed by the expert committees of the Canadian Commission on Building and Fire Codes. As an example, when it comes to concerns from firefighters, there is increased sprinkler protection for concealed spaces and balconies, greater water supply for fire protection, restrictions on types of building claddings used and increased consideration for access by firefighters . In the end,  when occupied, these buildings fully meet the same requirements of the Building Code as any other type of construction from the perspective of health, safety and accessibility.

What are some of the new safety provisions being proposed?

Fire safety:

  • Increased level of sprinkler / water protection:
  • More  concealed spaces sprinklered
  • Balconies must be sprinklered
  • Greater water supply for fire protection
  • Non-combustible or limited combustible exterior wall cladding on 5th and 6th storey
  • 25% of perimeter must face one street (within 15m of street) for firefighter access

Seismic and wind provisions:

  • Similar to BC Building Code
  • Guidance (Appendix) on impact of increased rain and wind loads for 5- and 6-storey

Acoustics:

  • Requirements for Apparent Sound Transmission Class (ASTC)
  • Supported by science from FPInnovations, NRC and many others.

Doesn’t wood burn?

No building material is impervious to the effects of fire. The proposed code changes go above and beyond the minimum requirements outlined in the NBCC. Health, safety, accessibility, fire and structural protection of buildings remain the core objectives of the NBCC and wood industry at large.

What about construction site safety?

The Canadian Wood Council has developed construction site fire safety guides which outline best practices and safety precautions to take during the construction phase of a building.

Are mid-rise wood-frame buildings cost effective?

For the most part, yes. Mid-rise wood-frame buildings are often a less expensive construction option for builders. This is good news for main-street Canada where land is so expensive. The recommended changes to the National Building Code of Canada (NBCC) would give the opportunity to erect safe, code compliant buildings that would otherwise not be possible. The net benefit of reduced construction costs is increased affordability for home buyers. In terms of new economic opportunity, the ability to move forward “now” creates new construction jobs in cities and supports employment in forestry communities. This also offers increased export opportunities for current and innovative wood products, where adoption in Canada provides the example for other countries.

Wood Design & Building Magazine, vol 25, issue 102
Building Canada’s Future With Wood
Scaling Affordable Rental Housing with Tall Mass Timber
Unlocking Affordable Timber Innovations in Structure, Prefabrication, and Code
Webinar – Online Tools for Wood Construction: CodeCHEK, FRR & STC & EMTC Calculator
Guide to Mid-Rise Wood Construction in the Ontario Building Code
Exposed Mass Timber Calculator
WoodWorks Building Tour – Pictou County Mass Timber Buildings
Federal Call for Proposals Opens Under $500M Forest Sector Transformation Investment
Wood Design & Building Magazine – Sign Up
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